Temari Japanese Cafe - Rockville 4/30/2011

Temari Japanese Cafe is located in a small storefront in a strip mall on Rockville Pike, typically jam packed with Japanese people. Although it serves sushi, this place seems to cater to those looking for home cooked, Japanese comfort food, like ramen, curry, miso soup, and various broiled fish dishes. Generally, I found the food to be well made...food that is probably as well prepared as you can find in your typical Japanese household. The stars, for me, were the broiled fish dishes. The broiled mackeral was fantastic...a slightly charred and crispy skin covering moist, mildly salted flesh. The broiled salmon looked great as well. The ramen was solid, if nothing to feel rapture about, but the fish was truly memorable.

Lighthouse Tofu (Vit Goel) - Rockville 1/29/2011

Lighthouse Tofu
12710 Twinbrook Pkwy
Rockville, MD 20847

Lighthouse Tofu (also known as Vit Goel) is a Korean "tofu" restaurant located a short distance from the Twinbrook Metro Station and also has another branch in Annandale, VA. This place specializes in dishes called soondubu, which is a stew of soft, custardy tofu in an extremely spicy soup. Although this restaurant specializes in "tofu" dishes, this is no safe-haven for vegetarians. The vast majority of the entrees have seafood or meat in them, and even some of the dishes that may appear to be fauna-free (specifically the complimentary panchan dishes) often are seasoned with seafood based condiments known as jeotgal. Of course, I am about as sympathetic to those vegetarians who complain about being "duped" into eating "animal-tainted" food in Korean restaurants as those who go to a McDonald's and who are shocked, absolutely shocked, to discover those luscious fries they were eating were dipped in beef tallow (there is a reason Korean cuisine is known for their beef BBQ rather than the gruel served in mountain monasteries to Buddhist monks). However, I thought some fair warning to the fastidiously flora-inclined was necessary.

Housed in a free-standing building, slightly reminiscent of the Greek diners prevalent in the southwestern Connecticut sprawl where I hail from, the exterior is adorned with a large banner advertising "$6.99 Korean Pancakes," which I suppose would make this place a more legitimate international house of pancakes than that other blue-roofed ambassador of flapjacks. The interior is rather typical for a Korean restaurant: lots of wood paneling, some private rooms with sliding lattice doors, and a wall proudly draped with a large American flag on one side with a much smaller Korean flag, tastefully tucked behind a potted plant, next to it. The clientele mainly consisted of Korean families, some other Asian ethnicities, I suspect, with the occasional Caucasian or three sprinkled throughout the crowd. A wailing baby serenaded me as we sat down.

The waitress arrived quickly and was quite courteous and patient, though she clearly did not have an absolute command of English and ordering was slowly deliberative. Allow me the opportunity to make a quick aside on the often-repeated complaint that members of Korean wait staff are rude. Personally, I don't recall ever receiving rude service in a Korean restaurant. Brusque, certainly, paternalistic even (especially with respect to Korean BBQ), but, from my own statistically insignificant sample set of observations, that mainly stems from my lack of Korean competency and their inability to speak fluently in English. Rather unsurprisingly, they don't tend to chat you up when they lack the linguistic ability to do so. Indeed, I am sure most must feel some embarrassment about being unable to fully understand the demands of customers outside of the occasional one word order or demonstrative semaphore, so I would chalk up brusqueness to these factors rather than a malicious intent to slight.

The panchan we received, which is meant to be an accompaniment to the rice, but often acts as a (large) amuse bouche, was quite frankly poor. The kimchi was soggy, leaden, and dull. It was clearly made that day, which one would normally think is a benefit, but for kimchi is a decided deficiency. Kimchi is a pickled dish that needs time to ferment. Given time, the spices actually mellows, the tangy acidity increases, the leaves of the cabbage can become deliciously crisp, and overall it can leave a refreshing impression on the palate. This dish had none of those things. The other complimentary dishes were slightly better: the bean sprouts were also a little soggy, the cucumbers had decent crunch, but could have fermented a little longer, and everything else was fine and forgettable. The cold kimchi soup they served was actually refreshing. This was fairly consistent with my experience in the Annandale branch (though the soup was much better there).

We also ordered several of the "$6.99 pancakes": an "oyster pancake," a "seafood pancake" and a "kimchi pancake." The kimchi pancake was the best, conveying brightness and tang to the crisp texture of the pancake (hint: a great way to salvage bad kimchi is to cook it). The seafood pancake and the oyster pancake turned out to be identical in flavor...though I suppose there might have been a nugget of oyster hidden in one of them, though I didn't get it. It was good...not too oily, had good texture, but not something that really stood out.

I also ordered the "spicy seafood soondubu," and this was clearly where this meal shined. You have the option to order soondubu mild, spicy, and "spicy spicy;" being faint of palate now, I chose spicy and it was just barely below my heat tolerance threshold. But, nonetheless, the soup was delicious, especially with the soft, creamy, and custardy tofu. It also comes with a raw egg, which I recommend you crack and mix the raw white and yolk into the soup. It comes boiling hot, so by the time you stir the egg into the broth, it is thoroughly cooked. It adds such an extra dimension of creaminess to dish, I could only shake my head in sadness when I saw other tables with their unused eggs. The soup also had two head-on shrimp and others miscellaneous bits of fruits de mer, and you could taste them in the broth. Well done!

The surprise was the the galbi, i.e., the sliced, marinated short ribs. The restaurant does not specialize in BBQ, but nonetheless, the kitchen produced as fine an example of galbi as I have had in a DMV Korean restaurant. It was moist, juicy, flavorful, and properly broiled. The marinade wasn't over-sweetened (which mars most of the Korean BBQ I have had in the past) with sugar, though there was a bed of sauteed onions, which I suspect was broiled with the ribs, which lended itself to the dish. All in all, a truly nice surprise.

As we left, it was near closing time, so I got a peek of the staff meal, and it looked like they were actually eating dishes from the regular menu. They were eating nakji jeongol, which is "casserole" of sauteed small octopus in a spicy sauce. I haven't had there rendition of this classic here, but I've heard mixed things. But, of course, octopus is not exactly a crowd pleaser, so it might be good. It certainly looked it and I might try it next time.

If you've never been to a Korean restaurant before, this place might not be the best place to start. As noted, this place specializes in only a select few dishes and is geared mainly to the traditional Korean palate. For the most part, within this limited scope, it is done well (and quite frankly better than at its sister branch in Annandale (though I've only been there once)). But, if you aren't familiar with these flavors, it might be a little too much, too soon, and you would probably be better served trying Yechon, which serves a wider variety of dishes and BBQ.

Maria’s Bakery – Rockville 1/7/2011

Maria's Bakery
12205 Nebel Street (Factory)
Rockville, MD 20852

Maria's Bakery is a Chinese bakery located in what looks to be a recently constructed mixed use development in Rockville. It is nestled in this strip mall that is not visible off Rockville Pike; you have to drive through a non-descript access road that cuts through a series of shopping plazas filled with big box stores. While the bakery itself has an ethnic feel, its neighbors clearly cater to a more gentrified clientele: there're a yoga studio, a Whole Foods across the Pike, probably a Potbelly and Panera, and maybe even an Uggs store (I don't believe an Apple Store has opened yet…I'm sure time will remedy that soon enough). Adjacent to it is a generic luxury condo complex, built with cheap materials and thrown up quickly, almost identical to the type you see in Arlington, Silver Spring, and the area around Nationals Park. I don't expect this place to be a UNESCO World Heritage site anytime soon.

We stopped by this bakery after dinner just before closing, so I probably didn't see it and its food at its best. When you walk in there is a glass display case filled with various cakes and pastries. On some shelves, they also have various breads and buns. I picked up a custard bun and a coffee cream bun. A friend of mine bought a red bean bun, another a slice of black forest cake, and another a preserved egg stuffed with a savory filling (perhaps meat?). Generally, I did not see any sesame balls or other things I find more distinctly Chinese…the baked goods being offered are fairly similar to those you can find in the Korean bakeries down in Annandale.

The custard bun was a little bland, the black forest cake a little dry, but the coffee cream was pretty good. I think the major problem was that the baked goods were not at their freshest, so if you stop by earlier, you will probably have a much better experience. Something to consider if you are in the area, though I suspect you might be better served trying Shilla Bakery or Le Matin de Paris if you want to sample Asian baked goods.

Coffee Cream Bun

Black Forest Cake

Mama Wok - Rockville 1/7/2011

Mama Wok
9900 Key West Ave
Rockville, MD 20850

With the construction of the Verizon Center supplanting the old Chinatown, Rockville and Wheaton in Montgomery County have become the de facto Chinatown in the DMV. Mama Wok, one of several “authentic” Chinese restaurants in Rockville, is located in a small strip mall just off Rockville Pike. Unlike Bob’s Noodle 66 or Michael’s Noodle, two more well-known restaurants in the area, Mama Wok does not specialize solely in Taiwanese cuisine, but rather serves a panoply of dishes hailing from regions as diverse as Sichuan, Guangzhou, and Shanghai (the cuisine of General Tso also makes an appearance on the menu). However, the food is primarily Taiwanese, with its hallmark delicacy and restraint being the primary characteristics of the dishes we ordered.

When you first walk in, the décor is not wholly dissimilar to that of the many standard Chinese carryouts that you probably walk past in DC or many other cities. Certainly cleaner, and a bit homier, but still retaining the familiar backlit menu above the formica counter, adorned with photographs of the Chef’s Specialty “Buddha’s Delight” and the Pu Pu Platter.

The clientele was a mix of Chinese and non-Asian families, with the Chinese families ordering the more traditional Taiwanese entrees while the non-Asian invariably dined on the Americanized fare. Hopefully this observation would disabuse the tired canard that one can ascertain the “authenticity” and quality of a restaurant by simply looking at the ethnicity of its diners. In this case, while there are many Chinese diners, this should not be taken as indication that you can order anything off the menu and expect it to be a traditional Chinese dish. Most Chinese restaurants, for misguided reasons, in my opinion, feel compelled to offer Sesame Chicken, Egg Foo Young, and the other Panda Express standards you can find in your local mall food court. Just because you see Asian diners doesn’t mean that you are going to get an authentic, or even good, rendition of Chow Mein. You are just as likely going to get something that the cook in the kitchen haphazardly tossed together while working with greater care on the more authentic entrees.

After we are seated, we decided to eat family style, sharing each entrée among ourselves accompanied by a bowl of rice. I looked at the menu and noticed that, unlike many other Chinese restaurants, they don’t segregate the Americanized offerings from the “authentic” offerings. Not being Chinese, I deferred ordering to my dining companions, though I did insist that we order the beef tendon dish after my initial request for pork intestines and duck blood is vetoed.

After sipping tea and ordering water (I notice that many Asian restaurants, be it Korean or Chinese, tend to offer tea as the default beverage and tap water has to be specifically requested), our appetizers arrived. The Crispy Squid was, unlike Italian calamari, unbreaded and fried in a light batter. I enjoyed it, though my dining companions found it a bit ponderous and heavy for their tastes. I did notice that the squid finishes with noticeable greasiness, but I thought the green onions and other seasonings managed to give it good lift and balance. But, then again, I do enjoy grease. We also ordered “steamed buns,” i.e. xiaolongbao (soup dumplings). The dumplings were well prepared, with a tender, moist skin. Unfortunately, the soup inside the dumpling had a pronounced ginger and umami flavor that overwhelmed the flavor of the pork fillings, rendering the dish a little one-note for my tastes.

The waitress stopped by and also offered us free soup, and rather than order the egg drop or hot and sour, we decided on the House Specialty. The fish broth was light, but flavorful. The mushrooms, tofu, and seaweed added nice texture as well. The one flaw was that it was a little too savory, suggesting a heavy hand with the MSG, which is unfortunate. To me, excess MSG is a technical issue similar to oversalting. Much like salt, MSG can add to a dish when used with restraint and, to me, is otherwise unobjectionable if a cook chooses to use it.

Our two seafood dishes came next. The first dish was a flaky, white-fleshed fish fillet smothered in a thick fish broth with snow peas, carrots, mushrooms, and baby Napa cabbage. The fish was flavorful in a delicate way, though texturally a little too soggy. But, the sauce imparted a deep seafood flavor that was tasty, if a bit overwhelming in the umami. The other seafood dish was similar: a poached shrimp dish with broccoli, baby corn, snow peas, and carrots. The broth was as flavorful as the previous one, imparting a deep crustaceous shellfish flavor on the dish. But, again, the heavy-handedness with the umami, which I presume was MSG, was noticeable and marred the dish.

The highlight for me was dish of well-prepared sautéed snow pea leaves. The texture of the greens remained intact, slightly wilted, but still retaining some bite. The sharpness of the greens was also lightly accented with garlic and otherwise judiciously seasoned. A simple dish, but very well done.

The fried chicken’s skin was crispy and its meat juicy. The grease was not as pronounced as it was with the Crispy Squid dish. I also appreciated that the kitchen chopped the chicken into chop-stick friendly portions, making it easy to pop into the mouth and savor. Personally, I wish there was a little more assertive seasoning spice-wise, but it was well-salted and generally most of my companions liked this dish quite a bit.

The dish I ordered, the Beef Tendon with House Sauce, was a disappointment. Generally, I enjoy the gelatinous texture and mouthfeel of beef tendon, which I have found most of my non-Asian friends to consider confounding. But, to me, the palate coating sensation of melted tendon is one of the homiest, most comforting gustatory sensations, invoking stark sense-memories, of rolling banks of snow, of logs burning in the fireplace, and of cold puffs of crisp, gelid New England air (I grew up in an atypical household). Unfortunately, the sauce was heavy on processed tomato paste: one of my friends suggested they used ketchup…personally, it reminded me of Chef Boyardee Beefaroni (and I mean that quite literally). The sauce then dissipated quickly, leaving you with a long, bland, unctuous finish.

Service was very good for this type of restaurant. The waitress was attentive and quick. We never ran out of tea and water was regularly refilled. The courses came out in a sensible manner, with appetizers, vegetables and seafood, and the poultry and beef dishes coming last. Also, providing a free course was most welcome. But, I’m sure that it helped that two of my dining companions spoke Mandarin, so YMMV.

As we finished our meal, we ended up conversing for some time and we noticed some platters of food on the table next to us. This is an oft-repeated scene I am sure many others have witnessed, as the kitchen starts preparing dinner for the wait staff after a hard night’s service. And, almost without exception, the food is always different from what is served to the diners. Now, my friends (and I to a lesser extent) pride ourselves on our palates and our knowledge of true, authentic Asian cuisine. I, of course, expected food like ours to be plated and served, “real” Chinese food for palates attuned to those traditional flavors, But, instead, of the ornate seafood dishes, the delicate soups, the beef tendon and offal, the plates being set on the table are filled with dishes completely different from those served to us. We saw shredded cabbage, steamed cauliflower, and stir fried meat and potatoes. Hearty, simple food. And as we polished off our fish, soup dumplings, and our beef tendon, a Mandarin-speaking, Taiwanese friend of mine comments, “We never get the same food as the waiters.”

A&J Restaurant - Rockville

A&J Restaurant
1319 Rockville Pike, Ste C
Rockville, MD 20852

Although the neon sign in A&J's window describes the food as "authentic Northern Chinese dim sum," it perhaps would be better described as a Taiwanese small plates restaurant. The food is certainly quite unlike that found in other dim sum establishments in the area, which, to my mind, is a positive rather than a negative.

We ordered several dishes, hot and cold, and I generally found the cold dishes more successful than the hot. Highlights include the "thousand year old egg" served on a bed of whipped tofu, the spicy cold tripe, cold beef tendon, and the noodles in sesame sauce. Also tasty were the seaweed salad, the cold mustard greens, and the shredded tofu salad. These dishes were all delicate dishes that relied on freshness and a subtle acidity rather than power and heavy handed seasoning.

The warm dishes, on the other hand, were a bit more mixed. The hot noodle soup with braised beef was solid; the broth was clean and uncomplicated and the beef tender. We also had a traditional Taiwanese "Oil Stick," which is essentially an airy cruller, that was an unpretentious treat. But the dumplings we had were only so-so, and other dim sum places in the area serve better.

The service was relatively friendly, if a bit inattentive. But, considering I only spent $15 for the meal, and the place undoubtedly relies on quick turnover to sustain itself, any neglect caused by the waitstaff deserves a pass.

Originally posted on Yelp on 8/28/2010