Oyamel is Jose Andres's Mexican small plates outpost, serving consistently well-prepared, inventive, and accessibly priced dishes that your average, twenty-something, white-collared Washingtonian can afford as a splurge now and again.
The ambiance is upbeat, but not nearly as frenetic as Andres's Greek/Middle Eastern inspired restaurant Zaytinya. This place is a restaurant foremost, and it is possible to have conversation without having to scream in your companion's ear. Service, however, can be a little intrusive, as my waiter consistently interrupted conversation with my dining companion. I know he was just trying to be helpful and attentive, but part of the art of quality service is to ask patrons their status during lulls and to not interrupt when the guests are trying to have quiet conversation with each other.
The food was of fairly high quality that you won't find in many other restaurants in DC. The one exception to this was my lengua taco. While well made, I know of several tacquerias where I could have purchased one of the same quality. But, the Mexican squash salad was refreshing and moreish. The Papas al Mole were crispy and the sauce dark and flavorful. Although they were just fries, they were excellent fries. The plaintain fritters were sweet and tasty, though the sauce was fairly forgetabble. On the other hand, the tamal verde had a bright and zippy sauce, but the chicken breast was kind of bland. The guacamole was nice and well made.
Other dishes I have enjoyed immensely in the past have been the scallops pasilla chile and pumpkin seed sauce, the short ribs, and the taco with confit of baby pig (which you cannot get at the other tacquerias in town).
I know this sounds like I am damning the food with faint praise, but the food really is generally well made. I have no qualms about coming back, especially because, generally speaking, you will not find food like this anywhere else in DC.
Showing posts with label mexican. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mexican. Show all posts
Tuesday, December 27, 2011
Saturday, October 15, 2011
Surfside - Glover Park
Surfside specializes in Baja-style Mexican food, and does it fairly well. A two level restaurant with somewhat limited seating, it was hopping the Friday evening I went there with some friends. It only offers counter-service, but they seem fairly efficient and it did not take too long for our food to be prepared.
Unlike most Mexican places, the chips and salsa do not come gratis. Nonetheless, we ordered a basket of chips with salsa and guacamole. The salsa was not pico de gallo, but rather a salsa roja that had a little tang and some savory smokiness. The guacamole was more run-of-the-mill, but was sufficiently chunky and seasoned to be enjoyable.
I got the Maui Tacos, which were chunks of grilled tilapia wrapped in white corn tortillas with a lime and sour cream sauce. Although tilapia has to be one of the most insipid pieces of seafood available in the U.S., Surfside did a good job grilling it, imparting just enough char to coax what little flavor you can get out of the fish. While the sour cream and lime did not add enough punch to the dish, with some the Yucateca Green Habanero sauce, the tacos got sufficient peppery tanginess to be pretty delightful. The side of rice and beans were adequate...nothing to be excited about, but competently done. An after thought, like the rice and beans at most Tex-Mex and Baja Mexican places I have been to.
I was initially a little apprehensive about Surfside, but I am glad I went. Perhaps not worth going out of your way for, but, if you are Glover Park, it is definitely a place to check out and try.
Wednesday, February 2, 2011
Pica Taco - Columbia Heights 2/1/2011
Pica Taco
1406 Florida Avenue NW
Washington, DC 20009
Pica Taco is a small taqueria tucked away on Florida Avenue, just a hop, skip, and drunken stumble away from the gentrification creep on 14th Street. The majority of the new development (the lux condos, the organic YES market, Busboys, etc.) is located on the eastern side of 14th while the western side contains the remains of what was once a skid row: dilapidated storefronts, carryouts, a food pantry, and of course, further down 14th near U, that monument to Marion Berry's Ozymadian ego, the DC Municipal Building. Pica Taco seems as if it sits squarely within this latter milieu, but considering the quality of the food inside, I feel it can certainly survive the wave of gentrification that's crashing upon the neighborhood.
The building is small, unassuming, and seems to be a former garage or carriage house. But for the small backlit sign and awning, it would be easy to miss. Primarily geared as a carryout, there are several small tables inside where you can sit down. After ordering, you can watch the kitchen staff prepare your food in the open kitchen and then watch as they bring it back to the counter, dress your dish with various sauces and toppings, and then place it in the pass for you to pick up. The friendly lady at the counter helpfully asked whether I wanted hot sauce, and after saying yes, she gave me a squeeze-bottle containing salsa verde (a spicy tomatillo sauce) that was clearly made in-house.
I ordered three tacos: a lengua (beef tongue), a barbacoa (braised, shredded beef), and a pastor (a shredded pork dish with spicy seasoning), wrapped in corn tortillas. Each was moist, tender, and flavorful. The barbacoa stole the show with its deep, savory, beefy flavor that only a well executed braise can pull off. While the lengua and pastor were both good, they tasted a little innocuous...not bland, but not quite as identifiably "porky" or "offalish" as I would like. But, they were still tasty and some might appreciate that they aren't too gamy in flavor. I was also slightly annoyed that I was given lemon, rather than lime, but that is just picking nits. I mainly used the salsa verde, anyway, which I actually wished was a little spicier and tangier, but it was still good and acted as a nice accompaniment to the tacos.
These reasonably priced tacos (about $2.25 each) are about as well prepared as any I have had in the DMV. Go. Now.
1406 Florida Avenue NW
Washington, DC 20009
Pica Taco is a small taqueria tucked away on Florida Avenue, just a hop, skip, and drunken stumble away from the gentrification creep on 14th Street. The majority of the new development (the lux condos, the organic YES market, Busboys, etc.) is located on the eastern side of 14th while the western side contains the remains of what was once a skid row: dilapidated storefronts, carryouts, a food pantry, and of course, further down 14th near U, that monument to Marion Berry's Ozymadian ego, the DC Municipal Building. Pica Taco seems as if it sits squarely within this latter milieu, but considering the quality of the food inside, I feel it can certainly survive the wave of gentrification that's crashing upon the neighborhood.
The building is small, unassuming, and seems to be a former garage or carriage house. But for the small backlit sign and awning, it would be easy to miss. Primarily geared as a carryout, there are several small tables inside where you can sit down. After ordering, you can watch the kitchen staff prepare your food in the open kitchen and then watch as they bring it back to the counter, dress your dish with various sauces and toppings, and then place it in the pass for you to pick up. The friendly lady at the counter helpfully asked whether I wanted hot sauce, and after saying yes, she gave me a squeeze-bottle containing salsa verde (a spicy tomatillo sauce) that was clearly made in-house.
I ordered three tacos: a lengua (beef tongue), a barbacoa (braised, shredded beef), and a pastor (a shredded pork dish with spicy seasoning), wrapped in corn tortillas. Each was moist, tender, and flavorful. The barbacoa stole the show with its deep, savory, beefy flavor that only a well executed braise can pull off. While the lengua and pastor were both good, they tasted a little innocuous...not bland, but not quite as identifiably "porky" or "offalish" as I would like. But, they were still tasty and some might appreciate that they aren't too gamy in flavor. I was also slightly annoyed that I was given lemon, rather than lime, but that is just picking nits. I mainly used the salsa verde, anyway, which I actually wished was a little spicier and tangier, but it was still good and acted as a nice accompaniment to the tacos.
These reasonably priced tacos (about $2.25 each) are about as well prepared as any I have had in the DMV. Go. Now.
Tuesday, February 1, 2011
Super Tacos & Bakery - Adams Morgan 1/30/2011
Super Tacos & Bakery
1762 Columbia Road NW
Washington, DC 20009
Super Tacos & Bakery is across the street from the so-called "Spanish Safeway" located on Columbia Road. It is near several Hispanic grocery stores, a Peruvian chicken restaurant, and several other shops that appear to cater to a Hispanic clientele.
Inside, the store is bare bones with an exposed kitchen behind the counter where you order. The place is clearly meant to be a carryout, though there are some stools and another countertop where one can eat in.
The menu, which is posted on several large green signs that run across the perimeter of the entire store, has a large selection. Tortas, enchiladas, burritos, and many other Mexican staples were available, including selected dishes such as the "Gringo burrito," which is apparently the chicken burrito. It was quite entertaining to watch this one kid, fresh out of college and rocking an L.L. Bean fleece vest, stumble into the restaurant with his girlfriend, look at the menu slightly bewildered, and then guilelessly order, in a voice that sounded like it just started cracking last week, for a "gringo burrito" without the faintest hint of irony.
I ordered three tacos: the lengua, the carnitas, and the pastor. The lengua (beef tongue) taco was excellent. It was slightly gamy, but extremely tender and moist. The carnitas and the pastor (both shredded pork) were both less exciting. I found the texture to the carnitas to be a little mealy and mushy, and the flavor a little bland. The pastor had some chili seasoning on it to make it a little more flavorful, but it had the same textural issues as the carnitas. The tacos were also enormous...three were way too much for me (and I am 240 lbs. and 6'6"), and next time I will stick to two or fewer. Because of their size, the tacos were also a bit more expensive than other taco stores in DC (about $3 each).
There was a also a salsa bar that had a salsa roja, a salsa verde, and a pico de gallo. All three were fantastic. The salsa roja had an earthy, smoky spiciness while the salsa verde was all bright, tangy freshness. The pico de gallo was also incredibly fresh and flavorful. The tomatoes were ripe, which, considering the time of year, meant they were either from a greenhouse or Peru (or perhaps both), but it is a sign that the proprietors make an effort to get good product for their restaurant.
All in all, I thought it was a solid experience. The woman at the counter was incredibly sweet and the service alone made me want to patronize this store again. Next time, I'll try the tortas.
1762 Columbia Road NW
Washington, DC 20009
Super Tacos & Bakery is across the street from the so-called "Spanish Safeway" located on Columbia Road. It is near several Hispanic grocery stores, a Peruvian chicken restaurant, and several other shops that appear to cater to a Hispanic clientele.
Inside, the store is bare bones with an exposed kitchen behind the counter where you order. The place is clearly meant to be a carryout, though there are some stools and another countertop where one can eat in.
The menu, which is posted on several large green signs that run across the perimeter of the entire store, has a large selection. Tortas, enchiladas, burritos, and many other Mexican staples were available, including selected dishes such as the "Gringo burrito," which is apparently the chicken burrito. It was quite entertaining to watch this one kid, fresh out of college and rocking an L.L. Bean fleece vest, stumble into the restaurant with his girlfriend, look at the menu slightly bewildered, and then guilelessly order, in a voice that sounded like it just started cracking last week, for a "gringo burrito" without the faintest hint of irony.
I ordered three tacos: the lengua, the carnitas, and the pastor. The lengua (beef tongue) taco was excellent. It was slightly gamy, but extremely tender and moist. The carnitas and the pastor (both shredded pork) were both less exciting. I found the texture to the carnitas to be a little mealy and mushy, and the flavor a little bland. The pastor had some chili seasoning on it to make it a little more flavorful, but it had the same textural issues as the carnitas. The tacos were also enormous...three were way too much for me (and I am 240 lbs. and 6'6"), and next time I will stick to two or fewer. Because of their size, the tacos were also a bit more expensive than other taco stores in DC (about $3 each).
There was a also a salsa bar that had a salsa roja, a salsa verde, and a pico de gallo. All three were fantastic. The salsa roja had an earthy, smoky spiciness while the salsa verde was all bright, tangy freshness. The pico de gallo was also incredibly fresh and flavorful. The tomatoes were ripe, which, considering the time of year, meant they were either from a greenhouse or Peru (or perhaps both), but it is a sign that the proprietors make an effort to get good product for their restaurant.
All in all, I thought it was a solid experience. The woman at the counter was incredibly sweet and the service alone made me want to patronize this store again. Next time, I'll try the tortas.
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